All posts tagged jeweler

how to size a ring

Ring sizing is one of the most common repairs that we do here at Philip’s Diamond Shop. It’s also a repair that a lot of people don’t totally understand. They come in and drop off a ring one size and they come back and the ring is a different size.

How does ring sizing work?

Ring sizing is really just the adjustment of a ring from one finger size to another. Bigger or smaller, ring sizing works the same way.

The first step in any successful ring sizing is figuring out what ring size a ring needs to be! It seems simple, but getting the right ring size is key to a comfortable ring. Sometimes, finding the right ring size can be the hardest part of the whole process! There are lots of online tools that involve printing out charts and setting rings on them and wrapping paper around your fingers, but nothing is quite the same as trying on ring sizers to see which one fits you best. Also, having a professional who knows how rings fit to help you is very helpful as well. Rings of different shapes, sizes and widths all fit a little differently, so someone who has some experience with making rings fit can make the different between a ring that’s almost right and a ring that fits perfectly.

After you’ve got the ring size, it’s time to get down to business and make that ring fit!

To make a ring bigger, one of our experienced jewelers will make a cut in the shank of the ring at the bottom. Using a ring mandrel (those long pointy things that jewelers slide rings onto to find the right size) they’ll work the cut apart until it’s at the right size. Next, they’ll add a bit of gold that fits in the space opened up by making the ring bigger.

After the jeweler places the new piece of gold in, they’ll solder, file and polish the ring until the new piece of gold is indistinguishable from the existing ring.

Sizing a ring down works in much the same way, except instead of adding a bit of gold, a small bit is cut out and then the shank is reattached to make the ring whole again.

There are a few cases where sizing can be a tough thing, like when sizing up or down many sizes or when gemstones are mounted in such a way that bending the ring might loosen them. Each piece can be its own puzzle to solve, but thankfully, we’ve got years and years of experience making rings fit on fingers and can walk you through any hard bits. You just need to drop your ring off and when you come to pick it up, it’ll fit and look like a brand new ring!

What about “stretching”? Can’t you just stretch the ring?

Sometimes people will talk about “stretching” a ring. In general, rings shouldn’t be, and aren’t, stretched. Stretching a ring can lead to it cracking. In very few cases, like a plain band that only needs a half size adjustment, would stretching (or compressing) be an acceptable option. In most cases, stretching is a bad idea.

Hopefully you’ve got a better idea of how ring sizing works! Let us know if we missed anything or if there are other jewelry questions you’d like answered!

before and after square

It is an unfortunate inevitability, someday, somehow, bad things will happen to good jewelry. In this case, it was the garbage disposal that attacked this wedding set. Fortunately, the jewelers here at Philip’s Diamond Shop laugh in the face of garbage disposals! We brought this mangled ring back and made it look as good as new!



Our hand-engraving adventures continue, this time we’ve embarked into the realm of gun engraving.


This Marlin rifle was hand-engraved by Mitchell Lurth here at Philip’s Diamond Shop. The engraving is topped off with a 14k gold monogram inlaid into the gun. Are you interested in finding out more about gun engraving? Drop us a line!

This Philip’s Diamond Shop TV spot was made in-house and spotlights our custom design and manufacturing abilities. That’s right, we make fancy videos AND fancy jewelry! Take a look!


Perfected by only the most talented jewelry artists, hand-engraving is an art practiced by few. Hand engraving involves actually cutting shapes, patterns, or letters into the metal. Unlike just casting a pattern directly into a given piece, hand engraving allows a much higher degree of detail and intricacy in the patterns. Working under a microscope, each line and pattern is cut into the metal by hand using specially prepared gravers. The artistry associated with hand engraving represents the pinnacle of the jewelry arts.

In today’s world of off-the-shelf merchandise, it’s not odd that when most people think of engraving it’s something like a name carved into the inside of a ring, or maybe a date on the back of a watch or locket. Jewelry engraving can be so much more though!


In the days when jewelry was almost entirely hand-crafted, it wasn’t uncommon for almost every piece in a jeweler’s line to be hand engraved. Look back at antique rings and some of the intricate details that, at the time, seemed to be quite commonplace. As jewelry manufacturing became more and more industrial and moved more and more to overseas factories, it became easier for companies to cut out the finer details (and their hand-engravers) until hand-engraving became a nearly lost art here in the United States. Most jewelers can still offer hand-engraving but often have to send the jewelry to one of a few hand-engravers operating around the country.

With the addition of Mitchell Lurth to our staff, Philip’s Diamond Shop has the ability to show you the possibilities that hand-engraving offers. From something as fun as engraving the back of an iPod, to intricate gun engraving and of course, beautiful fine jewelry detailing and engraving, we can do it here!

More of Mitchell’s work can be found at